| Author | Topic: Cleaning and Lubricating Old Films | Eric West. Cook
Junior
Posts: 13
From: Wellsboro, PA, USA
Registered: Sep 2010 |  posted May 15, 2011 02:10 PM    
I do non take any special equipment other than a projector and my films. I accept been slowly reading the posts about cleaning and checking some of the products, but I'm a piffling confused (and a little dense)...What do yous recommend for cleaning and/or lubricating films - both products to utilize, and means to apply the product? Standard viii mm, although I'd like to acquire a super 8 and 16 mm projector somewhen. How often should a moving-picture show be cleaned, and how oft lubricated? Almost of the films I accept are Blackhawk releases, or family home movies from the tardily 1940'southward to early 1970's. Practise I need to invest in some kind of additional equipment to use any cleaners or lubricants properly? Some of the products seem to require this others, I'm not certain. It seems like some people merely use a extra soft cloth and employ during rewind? What'south the best means to make these films terminal every bit long every bit possible and play as smoothly as possible? Any suggestions and clarifications would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
| IP: Logged | | Gerald Santana
Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1060
From: Cottage Grove OR
Registered: Dec 2010 | posted May 15, 2011 02:56 PM
Hi Eric - No doubt, that the questions you ask frustrate every projectionist. Eventually, in that location are simple solutions and here is my take, granted I've read all of the aforementioned posts you lot have and take done my own research on this matter, it is up to the individual. Plainly, nosotros will get the projectionist that but swears past Moving picture Baby-sit or Motion picture Renew, some like one or the other while there are a few that use both. Others use methods that are remarkably toxic still, preservation of the Pic is the intention. While some of u.s.a. use furniture shine and automobile detailing wipes that are silicone based, you will find some literature that states you should not use this or booze. They recommend Kodak motion picture cleaners or like production that could explode or share similarities to thinner. There are some products out there that "clean" films however the film cores Cook away. Hmmmm....I wonder if all of that makes information technology worth cleaning anyway. Here is my secret, and I volition allow it be known to others and then that you can try it and run across what you call up. I can predict that some of u.s. that depend on the "make" named solutions, will not desire to let them go, these cleaners are expensive. So the easiest fashion I found to clean the films (if necessary) is to use three elementary things: Pec Pads (non abrasive wipes), Alcohol Swabs (for skin training) and Mineral Oil. You will not spend more than $xx on these items if y'all already don't have them handy. First, I check the film (I've never seen) on a recording/editor I have, the GOKO RM8008. Look at the surface of the film as it passes from i reel to another and I make mental notes depending on what I see and hear. If the picture looks fine both on the rewinds and on the viewer, I put it up for projection making more mental notes if dust and dirt gather on the gate. If it does it will become a cleaning, if it does not, I put it back into box, store in a cold, dark, wooden cabinet and review it over again in a few months to a twelvemonth. All films should become onto rewinds at least once a twelvemonth for inspection and/or cleaning. Now the cleaning - If I notice much droppings left backside on the gate or if I see it appear on the film, I clean it. To begin, I open up a window for ventilation. Next, while the film is on rewinds I take an alcohol swab and with latex gloves on, I add one (small) driblet of mineral oil onto the wipe. If at that place is excess oil, what doesn't absorb, runs off of the swab and onto the bottle cap for reuse. And then, I but run the film betwixt a folded swab once using very gentle force per unit area and at 200' I finish to inspect it. I use the other side of the swab if there is much dirt or to finish the rest of the reel. Finally, I take a Pec Pad and cut it into quarters to brand 4 pieces out of one. I utilise one of the four squares and fold it over and run this through the movie with the exact same pressure on the rewinds. If you are having a tough fourth dimension rewinding, you may be applying too much pressure. Information technology should run smooth with gentile force per unit area on the picture show until its all the way rewound. Here you volition also find whatever sprocket damage that may need repair work, I just had to fix 1 today. Inspect the Pec Pad and if information technology looks make clean, run the picture again advert encounter what you lot call back. If in that location are all the same issues or deep cleaning you demand to make on portions of the film become alee and do that now, then run a dry out Pec Pad again through the entire reel. That should be enough nevertheless, if the moving picture appears to be likewise "wet", patently "dry" it with another pad if necessary. Subsequently deliberating for much time on what to use to clean films, I plant this method to be the easiest, to the lowest degree toxic, and virtually cost effective fashion to both, clean and lubricate my silent (and sound) films and MOST areas of the projector... ![[Wink]](https://8mmforum.film-tech.com/cgi-bin/ubb/wink.gif) [ May xv, 2011, 08:10 PM: Message edited by: Gerald Santana ] --------------------
http://lostandoutofprintfilms.blogspot.com/
| IP: Logged | | Osi Osgood
Film God
Posts: 10204
From: Mountian Home, ID.
Registered: Jul 2005 | posted May sixteen, 2011 10:31 AM
Boy, at that place are as many theories on this every bit there are collectors, only I'll throw in my two cents worth.Some folks would say, everytime you projection. Persoanlly, I think that this tin can cause you lot projector harm over the long haul, (build up of chemicals in the movie ath ect.) If yous take simply caused an aging print, offset take a non scratching material and clean it that mode starting time, and then take your film cleaning liquid of choice, (mine is "Film Renew") and give information technology a good cleaning with that. But in one case you have washed that, as a general rule, there's not a reel need foer abiding cleanings of your films ... ... unless your like me and dear to unspool lots of movie merely to bank check ut individual scenes or frames and in that location y'all are cleaning your films all over once again! --------------------
"All these moments will exist lost in fourth dimension, but like ... tears, in the rain. "
| IP: Logged | | Bradford A Moore
Master Picture Handler Posts: 272
From: Provincetown, Ma
Registered: Jul 2005 | posted May sixteen, 2011 10:43 AM
Filmrenew is actually a good product to clean your projector path with, and rollers etc. I wouldn't apply it though on your sound head. I would use alcohol like you would if y'all were cleaning the heads of a tape deck. I mostly clean my prints after a couple showings. Y'all would exist surprised even if you lot take recently cleaned a impress, and your projector too, afterward a couple showings there will exist some build upwards.For old dry and warped films, I will employ filmrenew, and give information technology a back rewind with the emulsion side out, and let it sit that way on a metallic reel for one two weeks. I generally have had good results, unless the print has shrunken, and and so yous are almost likely out of luck.
| IP: Logged | | Wayne Tuell
Main Film Handler Posts: 488
From: Minden, NV
Registered: Jul 2009 | posted May xvi, 2011 03:09 PM
If you employ filmguard, filmrenew or vita-film, be certain to use nitrile gloves to go along the chemicals off your skin if hand cleaning. On the occasions I do paw cleaning, I use new, washed once soft flannel. I personally like the picture-o-make clean. It has a constant motility of the cleaning media then the chance of build up and scratching film is eliminated. A fleck off topic: Bradford touched on dry warped films...LFP or pure camphor take improve results than filmrenew IMHO. I purchased a cheap B&W film from Larry U. that was warped and would not accept upward without bagging unless I put a half twist at the take-up reel. He had tried to "fix" it with 0 luck in doing so. A few months stored with pure camphor and it was able to take-upward without assistance. For what information technology is worth, Brad Miller states he used two identical trailers, one treated with filmguard, one without. Well-nigh 10 years after the trailer that had been treated even so runs perfect, the other has dried and turned breakable. [ May 17, 2011, 09:00 AM: Bulletin edited by: Wayne Tuell ] --------------------
www.16mmDrive-InFilms.com
| IP: Logged | | | | Brad Miller
Ambassador
Posts: 525
From: Dallas, TX, United states of america
Registered: Jun 2003 | posted May 17, 2011 12:05 AM
quote:
For what it is worth, Brad Miller states he used two identical trailers, ane treated with filmrenew, one without. About 10 years later the trailer that had been treated still runs perfect, the other has dried and turned brittle.
Incorrect. FilmGuard, not FilmRenew. Two dissimilar picture show cleaners, somewhat similar name. FilmGuard is a much more tiresome drying cleaner, which is why the wet gate qualities last longer along with the lubricating backdrop. It is as well the Just not-hazardous material motion picture cleaner on the market place.
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